COVID-19

Asia-Pacific garment industry suffers as COVID-19 impacts ripple through supply chain

A new ILO research studies the impact of the COVID-19 crisis on supply chains, factories and workers in ten major garment-producing countries of the region, including Viet Nam.

Press release | 21 October 2020
© ILO
BANGKOK (ILO news) – The COVID-19 crisis has hit the garment sector in the Asia- Pacific region hard, with plummeting retail sales in key export markets affecting workers and enterprises throughout supply chains according to new research from the International Labour Organization (ILO).

The supply chain ripple effect: How COVID-19 is affecting garment workers and factories in Asia and the Pacific assess the impact of the COVID-19 crisis on supply chains, factories and workers in ten major garment-producing countries of the region: Bangladesh, Cambodia, China, India, Indonesia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Philippines, Sri Lanka and Viet Nam.

The research highlights that major buying countries’ imports from garment-exporting countries in Asia dropped by up to 70 per cent in the first half of 2020, due to collapsing consumer demand, government lockdown measures, and disruptions to raw material imports necessary for garment production.

As of September 2020, almost half of all jobs in garment supply chains were dependent on demand for garments from consumers living in countries with the most stringent lockdown measures in place, where retail sales have plummeted. The Asia-Pacific region employed an estimated 65 million garment sector workers in 2019, accounting for 75 per cent of all garment workers worldwide.

It is vital that governments, workers, employers and other industry stakeholders work together to navigate these unprecedented conditions and help forge a more human-centred future for the industry."

Ms Chihoko Asada Miyakawa, ILO Regional Director for Asia and the Pacific
Speaking about the findings, Ms Chihoko Asada Miyakawa, ILO Regional Director for Asia and the Pacific said, “This research highlights the massive impact COVID-19 has had on the garment industry at every level. It is vital that governments, workers, employers and other industry stakeholders work together to navigate these unprecedented conditions and help forge a more human-centred future for the industry.”

Although governments in the region have responded proactively to the crisis, the research reveals the closure of thousands of factories across the region either temporarily or indefinitely. Worker layoffs and dismissals have increased sharply, while factories that have reopened are often operating at reduced workforce capacity.

“The typical garment worker in the region lost out on at least two to four weeks of work and saw only three in five of her co-workers called back to the factory when it reopened. Declines in earnings and delays in wage payments were also common among garment workers still employed in the second quarter of 2020,” said Christian Viegelahn, Labour Economist at the ILO Regional Office for Asia and the Pacific.

In addition, the research identifies how women, who make up the majority of the workers, have been disproportionately affected by COVID-19, exacerbating existing inequalities in earnings, workload, occupational segregation, and distribution of unpaid care work.

Although the garment sector in Asia is generally marked by low levels of collective bargaining at both sector and factory level, the research notes that social dialogue appears to have helped strengthen crisis responses in countries where dialogue mechanisms are in place. The brief calls for more inclusive and meaningful social dialogue at the national and sectoral level in countries across the region.

Other recommendations highlighted include the need for continued support for enterprises, as well as the extension of social protection for workers and especially women. The recent global ‘Call to Action,’ an international multi-stakeholder initiative facilitated by ILO is also noted as a promising example of industry-wide solidarity efforts to address the crisis.

The supply chain ripple effect: How COVID-19 is affecting garment workers and factories in Asia and the Pacific is based on extensive desk research and analysis of publicly available and enterprise-level data, together with interviews with leading stakeholders from across the sector in Asia. It was led by Cornell University and an ILO team comprising the Regional Economic and Social Analysis Unit (RESA), Better Work and the ILO-Sida Decent Work in Garment Supply Chains Asia project.

The total value of Viet Nam’s garment industry in the first eight months of 2020 was estimated at US$22.39 billion, down by 13 per cent compared to the same period of last year, according to the Viet Nam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS).

The trade surplus value was $11.92 billion, also 10 per cent lower than the same period of 2019.

In the first seven months of this year, the US remained the biggest market for Viet Nam’s industry, accounting for 47 per cent of the total export value, followed by Japan and the EU.